Go into any pet supply store and you will
get bombarded with literally hundreds of toys for your puppy or
dog. With so may to choose from, what ones are best for your
canine companion?
First, look at your puppy or dog. Puppies
chew to explore, help with teething, etc. Dogs chew because it
is fun and to alleviate boredom. How aggressively your puppy or
dog chews will help determine what type of toys is best.
Second, look at the toys. Is it designed
for animal use? How sturdy is it and how long will it last?
Chew toys that are gone fast are not good chews. Toys that tear
up easily, have small parts that can become choking hazards,
etc., are bad as well. Toys that are too large or too small
– especially too small – are bad choices.
RAWHIDE:
Rawhide is basically cured animal hide. It
can be shaped into various objects and are a common chew item.
However, rawhide may not be as safe as you think. Those chips
and novelty items such as slippers made from rawhide are not
great chews. Dogs and puppies can quickly gobble them up. So
much for a satisfying chewing session! Small chunks of rawhide
can pose a choking threat. Though millions of these rawhide
treats are used each year and the threat is low, you do not
want your pet to be the tiny minority that has a problem. Even
the rolled bones that are just sheets of rawhide rolled up can
be chewed apart.
Rawhide can be pressed into bones and other
shapes by using pressure. Layers of rawhide are formed into
tougher bones and shapes that last far longer than the flat and
rolled rawhides. Pressed rawhide gives a longer and better
chew. However, it can still be worked down into small, chokable
sized pieces relatively fast by an aggressive chewer. Out of
the two more popular choices for rawhide, I prefer pressed.
They last longer than chips and give a better chew.
OTHER ANIMAL TISSUE CHEWS:
There are a variety of ears, snouts,
trachea, etc., that are produced for chewing. Similar to
rawhide chips, they may not give a great chew. They are meant
more as an edible treat than a solid chew. I find chew hooves
too small for many dogs to safely have and would avoid them
except with smaller breeds. Again, make certain your dog does
not wolf them down and choke.
EDIBLE BONES:
There are many bones out there made from
natural materials such as pressed cornstarch, vegetables, etc.,
impregnated with flavors. These bones are pretty solid and can
give a decent chew. However, they can become gummy and sticky
and a mess in longer coats. Also, an aggressive chewer may eat
them like regular dog biscuits. Some brands are harder than
others so look for the strongest bone you can.
NATURAL BONES:
Natural bones can give a great chew and
last for quite sometime. There are many out there. I prefer the
bones that are from shanks (look like tubes) or the
knucklebones. Look for bones that are thick and free from
cracks. Avoid the ones that are full legs – often from
knee down to hoof. The smaller bones in the "ankle"
region can be a choking hazard. Also, make sure the bone is
fitted to your dog; a really large dog with a smaller bone can
be a bad thing. Natural bones can also be stuffed with soft dog
treats, cheese or peanut butter to encourage more chewing.
However, very aggressive chewing dogs can wear down and even
break teeth. Monitor these bones as they can wear down, crack
and break up.
RUBBER AND NYLON:
Bones of these materials are generally
pretty rugged and safe. However, again you must know your dog.
A really aggressive chewer can bite of chunks of rubber. Rarely
do you hear of a dog snapping a nylon bone but they can
splinter them. Many dogs do not like chewing rubber or nylon
– it is just not a natural thing for them to chew.
However, the rubber toys you can stuff with peanut butter or
cheese can help entertain a bored dog.
FLEECE AND CANVAS:
Fleece and canvas toys give dogs something
they can sink their teeth into and really shake around. A good
quality toy is pretty rugged. I have had some that have lasted
years through dogs playing tug of war, fetch, etc. However, I
have had some that have lasted only a couple hours. Look for
toys that have eyes that are stitched and not buttons or things
that can tear off. Look for sturdy construction and durability.
Some have squeakers in side that a dog may decide to go for. If
you notice your dog doing this, look for a sturdier toy (I find
canvas lasts longer than some of the fleece and fabric toys) or
one without that elusive squeaker.
ROPE:
Rope toys can be great toys as well. A well
made one will be thick and rugged. However, watch that your dog
does not shred the fringe off the ends.
OTHER NOVELTIES:
There are also a variety of plastic and
hard rubber balls, blocks, odd shapes and such that are great
for putting treats into and encouraging your pet to dig them
out. They can be wonderful for a dog that gets bored quickly
and you want to keep busy.
The big thing with any toy is to know your
dog. If you notice he can easily shred or eat a toy, take it
away and use something different. What is fine for one dog may
not be with another. Make certain the toy is an appropriate
size. A Lab could easily swallow and choke on a bone meant for
a Pomeranian. Conversely, a Pomeranian may not be able to get
his tiny mouth around a Lab sized bone. When you buy rawhides,
try to find ones made in the USA or other country that
regulates processing of rawhides. Some countries may use
harmful chemicals in processing the rawhide. |
